I attempted to talk to someone from TrunkClub about there brand, but received no response. Rather than give up, I signed up for an account and decided to see what a stylist would pick out for me. I was assigned to a stylist named Suzanne. Suzanne seemed nice enough and called me almost immediately to see what I might want to buy. I told her that I was looking for a sports jacket and started to describe it. My idea was to set this as an experiment and see what brand I might find based on a jacket I found at Nordstroms if I requested something similar.
I gave Suzanne the link to two sports jackets from Nordstrom’s that I like, one by Hugo Boss (mentioned in a previous blog entry) and another one by Ted Baker. Neither were particularly fancy or out of the ordinary. I told the stylist that I was looking to find a side vented slim-fit or trim-fit sports jacket. I also explained that I don’t particularly care for metal buttons. With all of this in mind, she went to work looking for me for a few days.
Finally, I got an email with some things to look at and she ended up shipping me three sports jackets to try on. It came in the mail in an interesting looking box that looked like a Trunk (I guess that makes sense, huh?) and wrapped really nicely. I have to admit that the feeling of opening the box reminded me a little bit of how I felt walking into the dressing room at Nordstrom’s with Susan.
Inside the trunk (it’s really a box as you can see) I unpacked the sports jacket and tried them on with a friend looking at them to give me an opinion on them. One of the jackets fit pretty well, but I didn’t like the material. The sports jacket that was like the Hugo Boss jacket was a bit too long. I let my stylist know that I’d like for a 40 short to be sent since the 40 regular was too long and she indicated that they didn’t have that jacket in a short.
The limitation in sizes there was a bit disappointing. The assertion that I should take an already expensive jacket to the tailor to get it altered didn’t exactly leave me feeling good about my experience. Overall, my experience with TrunkClub was generally positive. The stylist did a good job looking for something that I would like and provided service just like Susan did at Nordstrom’s and the salesperson at Brooks Brothers. While I liked this service, the physical distance to me made it feel a lot less valuable. The price difference between the items I received from TrunkClub and the ones Susan picked for me at Nordstrom’s were significant, but I felt like I got more value out of my experience at Nordstrom’s. Later this week, I am expecting a package from Bombfell, which I plan to review in the same manner.
Following my experience with the stylist at J Crew, I felt like actually experiencing working with a personal stylist would give me a better understanding of the premium apparel market. Beyond this, I really needed a few more pairs of pants for work, so I thought this would be a good way to hit two birds with one stone.
I’ve always liked Nordstrom’s. In terms of department stores, they are likely the highest end store in Pittsburgh (comment on this entry disagree). My thoughts about their brand and service made picking Nordstroms for this experience an easy choice.
I went to Nordstrom’s website and set up an appointment with a stylist for an appointment (I allowed their system to randomly assign me to a stylist). Soon after setting my appointment, I was greeted by the stylist named Susan. She sent a brief email introduction asked for some basic information to get an idea of my style.
I explained that I was looking for pants that I could wear to work in a business casual setting and provided by pants size. In response, she asked me for my shirt size, shoe size, and a few other measurements. I knew that in setting up this appointment she would attempts to sell me things I wasn’t asking for, but I had no idea what I was getting into.
We exchanged a few emails and I attempted to paint a picture of the current state of my wardrobe. I thought doing this would give her a better idea. I also described the environment I dress up for at work (business casual except for Fridays). With that information, she went about her job of picking out out some things for me to try.
I got to Nordstroms about twenty minutes early, because I didn’t want to be late. I walked over to the section where the stylist told me to meet her and spent about fifteen minutes looking around. There was no shortage of sales representatives walking around offering to help me. I felt like I could have jokingly asked for a cup of coffee and would have found one in my hand before I could blink. About five minutes before my appointment, I let someone know I was there to meet with Susan and gave my name.
My stylist took me to a dressing room filled with shirts, jeans, pants, shoes, and a few jackets. It was a little bit like walking into a dream filled with clothes that I would like minus a few of the shirts.Timberland Boot Company ‘Wodehouse Lost History’ Boot (loved them, but a bit out of my price range). She was pretty spot on with my taste minus about two or three shirts that I just didn’t like and one of the three pairs of shoes. Unfortunately, I am not made of money, so I wasn’t going to buy most of the things she pulled.
After looking around the dressing room for a minute, we walked out to look around the store for anything else I might want her to pull. I looked at a few casual jackets and sweaters that were far outside of my price range, but wanted to try them on anyway. I asked about peacoats since it was the end of the winter season and they might have some on sale. I found one I liked, but of course it was one of the few that wasn’t on sale and far beyond my price range. At this very moment, I am wishing I had bought it, but there is always next year, right?
I wanted to take a look at sports jackets and we both looked over there. She pulled a beautiful Hugo Boss sports jacket for me to try. It was slim cut navy sports jacket with side vents. I don’t know that I’ve ever put on a jacket that has looked as flattering as that one did. I asked her to pull it and started thinking to myself, is there any chance I am really going to buy this?
Going back to the dressing room things were pretty simple. I tried something on and asked her opinion about the fit. I found that a few things were a size too big and she ran to find me the right size. I feel in love with a pair of wool pants by a Ted Baker London.
They were incredibly light, but still felt warm. They were exactly what I was looking for to wear to work and my stylist let me know that they would hem them for me for no additional charge. That sold me on them pretty quickly.
I found another pair of pants I liked as well as a really sharp pair of Cole Haan dress shoes she picked out. I had no intention of buying shoes that day, but they were too perfect to say no to. I wore them while the seamstress there chalked the pants I was buying to be hemmed.
I let the stylist know what I was buying and that I just couldn’t buy the Hugo Boss jacket that I adored and she told me she’d let me know if it went on sale. I’m crossing my fingers the jacket will be on sale for the anniversary sale, but I’m certainly not holding my breath.
Overall, I can see why someone would use a personal stylist or personal shopper. Having someone who can size you up and help pick out things that will look flattering on you and have them ready for you before you even step in the store is a really nice experience. There was something so simple about this shopping experience. It was so personal, but that may have been helped by the fact that she told me she had a son about my age.
During this whole experience, I started asking myself if this service would live on. My idea from J Crew that stylists get most of their clients from recommendations was reinforced. She wanted to know what my experience was like using their website to be routed to a stylist since she wasn’t familiar with the process. She also seemed to have little knowledge or was unwilling to talk about the relationship between Nordstroms and Trunk Club.
As I said in another entry, my want to learn about fashion was related to my goal to reinvent my personal brand. This goal has included a complete rebuild of my wardrobe. While this wasn’t a cheap thing to do, it was way overdue. At 25, it is sadly time to retire the t-shirt from a college basketball game sponsored by Mellow Mushroom. My t-shirts from high school youth group probably need to go too.
Along this journey, I’ve been looking for my own style and started to really like J. Crew’s shirts. I found a number of them at a second hand store in Squirrel Hill called Avalon Exchange (they are on Forbes Avenue between Murray and Shady if you are interested). With this in mind, I thought it might be interesting to find someone who could help me put together my own “style guide” so to speak. I went up online and found that J Crew offers a personal stylist service and decided I’d check it out. I knew there would be no pressure to buy anything and thought it would be interesting to write about.
Without doing much research, I called the J Crew store in Shadyside only to realize that the store is a women’s only store. After talking to the personal stylist for a minute, I decided that the academic value of visiting a women’s store provides an already well-segmented market. I agreed to meet the stylist on a Sunday afternoon just top get a better idea of what personal stylists do.
Going into the meeting, my knowledge of personal stylists consisted of Rachel from Friends working at Bloomingdales. I showed up to my appointment a little bit early since it was snowing out and decided to sit in my car for a minute to really survey the location of the store.
The J Crew store in Shadyside is located on Walnut Street along with a variety of other high-end retailers. The Apple Store is basically across the street from J Crew and a block away is a jeweler that sells Rolex watches among other things.
This J Crew location had a bright lighting design. The floor layout was clearly designed with female customers in mind. I can’t imagine a men’s store being set up the way this store was. It had warmth to it with clothes, shoes, and accessories arranged attractively.
I sat down on a couch by the shoes to talk to the personal stylist and get an idea of what a stylist really does. Some things I learned seem to be standard across the industry. For one thing, personal stylists at brick and mortar stores tend to get most of their customers by word of mouth and recommendations.
Personal stylists also deal with several different kinds of customers. Some come by when they need something for a special event like an interview. There are some customers who come in once per season looking to add a few outfits or items to their rotation. There are still other customers who want to know as soon as new items they might like come in.
I talked to this stylist about the future of retail, since I have an interest in some of the technology of tomorrow. I asked if she had any fears related to the smart dressing room of the future. Her answer was simple, some people will have trouble in that world, but others will sell a lot more because of those tools.
Technology in retail has the potential to really change the landscape as it already has, but my experience talking to a stylist at J Crew made me realize that at this level, the personal touch that a stylists gives is not replaceable by a computer. The question for the future is if people will value that the same way that I do. Is the service at a store worth the extra money?
While I am not in the market for a suit right now, I’ve heard from a variety of sources about technology had entered into the high-end suit market. While at the beginning of the semester, I found it hard to believe that any company was finding success in high-end fashion without a brick and mortar presence or with an extremely limited one, I found that the high end market for suits was no different.
Enter Knot Standard, the first online source I stumbled on that will make you a custom suit at a fraction of the cost of your typical tailor. Knot standard asks you to take a few measurements of yourself and take some pictures using a webcam to help them create a 3D model of yourself. From this, Knot Standard creates a pattern and “laser cuts and hand assembles” a suit for you based on your choice of fabric, cut, pleats, and a variety of other considerations.
After reading about this on their website, I felt the need to understand the suit market a little bit better and understand the different “levels” of suits.
At the very top is a bespoke suit, which is what Knot Standard provides. Using measurements and some directions from the buyer as well as several fittings, a bespoke suit is assembled. Bespoke suits are custom and start with a pattern specifically created for each customer. A step down from this is a made to measure suit. Much like a bespoke suit, measurements are taken, but a pattern exists that is adjusted to fit the buyer and only a limited number of options are available to the customer to change with the suit.
The next step down is an off-the-rack suit. This is what I have and most people you know probably have a suit bought off the rack. A suit like this might be ready to be worn when you leave the store or may require minor alteration. In most of the cases I’ve experienced, the pants aren’t made to a particular length when they are purchased and have to be hemmed before they can be worn.
The last kind of suit is suit separates. When you buy suit separates, you are buying the pants and jacket separately. These are really good if you have funny proportions like I did at the end of middle school. Finding a suit that is cut right for an awkward kid going through puberty is hard, so being able to buy the pants and jacket at different sizes is super helpful.
While it isn’t necessarily obvious if you don’t have a great deal of knowledge about suits, Knot Standard is a huge threat to the market for bespoke, made to measure, and high end off-the-rack suits. Knot Standard suits start at just under $500, which is considerably less than the cheapest made to measure suits at Nordstrom’s ($795), Brook’s Brothers ($648), or your average local bespoke or made to measure suit. A fairly decent off the rack suit can be found for around $300 or less, but might require tailoring.
Stores like Brooks Brothers and Nordstrom’s would be smart to look to buy into the online bespoke and made to measure suit market. This could be used as a springboard to their more premium suiting products. If either of these premium apparel companies or other similar brands do decide to enter this market, co-branding opportunities add value to both companies or don’t damage the big brother brands will be crucial to future success.
Shifting gears, I want to talk about my experience in shopping in high-end retail. A lot has changed in recent years with the services I’ve received at these kinds of stores.
Lets rewind a few years to when I was a student at the College of Charleston. I walked into the Brooks Brothers store on King Street wearing rainbow sandals, a hooded sweatshirt, and shorts. I was dressed about as casually as I do these days when I go to the gym. I don’t know that I’ve been ignored inside of a store in my life (well, other than Walmart, but that is for another day) to the level I was that day. Looking back, I probably looked like a slob and more than likely didn’t look like I could afford anything in the store, but even so, they could have been friendly at the time. It didn’t seem to hurt them, at least in this case.
In recent months, I’ve returned to stores like Brooks Brothers, Banana Republic, and Nordstrom’s, but dressed in a completely different way. I want to describe the experiences I’ve had in these stores recently.
Let’s start with Brooks Brothers since that is where I started with this. Following brunch with my friend Charles, we meandered over to the Brooks Brothers in Downtown Pittsburgh. As I walked into the store, there was a piece of me that could hear Julia Roberts in the film Pretty Woman trying to burst out.
We entered dressed in sports jackets and dress shirts. Unlike my experience in Charleston, we were swiftly greeted by a salesperson who checked to see if we needed any help. In what I can only describe as a stereotype, I walked directly to where I thought the sales rack would be.
After looking a bit confused, the salesperson came over and directed me to the bin with my size (15) and described which shirts were the fit I was looking for based on their label (slim fit). With a little help from Charles, I found a shirt I liked and the salesperson saw me looking around and offered me a dressing room to try on the shirt. She stood close by to make sure I didn’t need anything and gave her opinion of how the shirt looked when I came out to look in the mirror. I felt skeptical and got advice from Charles.
After this, I decided to also buy a plain white dress shirt to wear to the event I was headed to the next day. I described to the salesperson the cut of the shirt I was looking for and she ran over with a freshly packed shirt for me to try. After trying on the shirt, I found the sleeves to be too short. She ran in back and found the right sleeve size in the right cut (slim fit), collar style (spread), and sleeve style. I quickly tried on the correct size shirt and looked at it in front of a mirror along with Charles.
I handed the salesperson the other shirt I had picked out and changed back into my own shirt. I finally walked over to the register where the salesperson had folded up the first shirt I had tried on and quickly folded the other. She asked for my name to look up in their database and then told me my total for the day. After paying, she came out from behind the register with my bag and her card in the other hand and encouraged me to let her know if I needed any more shirts or anything else.
This experience was obviously a lot more positive that my initial experience. I found the attention of the salesperson to be somewhat intimidating at first, but that changed as I became more comfortable inside the store. My experience in the store made me feel more positively about the Brooks Brothers brand that I already felt. The combination of service and quality products that I’ve bought have created a sense of brand loyalty for me.
One of the most challenging places for web-based companies to compete has been with clothing. While traditional brick and mortar retailers have found the need to have a presence on the web, few companies have developed through a web only platform with a focus on clothing. Retailers like Amazon and Zappos sell products from other brands and don’t maintain physical stores and sell little that of their own brand. Today we are seeing a handful of companies with a focus on clothes come to the market with a focus on luxury and service that are even developing private labels.
Companies like Macy’s, J Crew, and small local apparel boutiques face this new threat in luxury apparel. Personal stylists or personal shoppers at brick and mortar stores are facing a challenge from the new online personal stylist. Trunk Club (now owned by Nordstrom’s), LeTote, and StitchFix are only a few examples of companies looking to take on market share through a model with luxury items with good customer service, but a lower cost.
These online stylists work much like an in-store one would. Trunk Club has customers complete a profile before a customer is connected with a stylist. The customer selects a few styles or outfits and puts them together in a “trunk” that will be shipped to the customer. Once received, they can then try on the clothes and decide what they want to keep and ship other items back. Customers only pay for the items they keep and shipping is free. The model seems like it could be convenient, especially for someone who lives a busy life or just needs help finding a style that fits him or her.
Trunk Club describes what they do quite well on their website:
“Trunk Club was started to solve a simple problem – shopping for clothes in stores or online just doesn’t work for most guys. It’s overwhelming and inconvenient. With Trunk Club, guys discover awesome clothes that are perfect for them without ever having to go shopping. We combine top brands, expert service, and unparalleled convenience to deliver a highly personalized experience that helps guys look their best.”
These types of services are in their infancy, but have the potential to challenge existing retailers or expand the market for luxury items. A fear of the impact of these programs led Nordstrom’s to purchase Trunk Club over the summer and to help them join the e-Stylist business and J. Crew’s launch of their J Crew At Home Service.
In the last month or two, I started to question what my personal brand is. I’ve changed a lot in the last six months, so this thinking has had to change along with it.
Part of defining my new personal brand has been putting together a new wardrobe. If you don’t talk to me often, you might not know that I’ve lost about sixty pounds since late June 2014, with most of the weight loss occurring since September. This means that nearly everything I own from the past looks less like my clothes and more like some pajamas I got at some point.
I decided to ask friends and family for help picking out things that would look flattering. This has meant three trips to outlet malls as well as numerous trips to a neighborhood second hand store. Time and time again, I found myself buying clothes from the same few brands. Shopping for new clothes made me realize that some of the clothes I was buy reflect the image I want to show others.
In the past, I had rarely shopped at Banana Republic, Brooks Brothers, or J. Crew, but if you look in my closet today, that is the majority of what you’ll see. I saw these clothes as an investment in my personal brand. I wanted to show people that I care a about my appearance and show semblance of a fashion sense.
My feelings about these companies speaks more to the work that these companies have done to develop and maintain their brands than it does about any individual person. In my upcoming blog entries, I will be looking at these brands as well as a few others and how people my age interact with these brands.
My interest is specifically is in the space of premium apparel brands. How do these brands stay ahead? How do they maintain value while catering to changing consumer taste? Along the way, I will talk to people in this industry and people who purchase from it. I plan to also explore the biggest challenger to brick and mortar premium apparel, the web.